The day started like most of my dumbest ideas — with an early wake-up and a stomach full of excitement, nerves, and craving coffee. And at 6:30 AM, Kaitlyn dropped me off near Randolph at the Valley Way trailhead.
My mission? Run the entire Presidential Traverse, north to south.
This is a nearly 20-mile gauntlet through the White Mountains with over 8,400 feet of elevation gain and seven peaks (plus one bonus) standing in my way.
I’d trained, prepped my gear, and stalked the weather forecast for days. But nothing fully prepares you for what it’s like to be up on that ridge, surrounded by jagged rock and wide-open sky.
So, here’s how it all went down. From brutal climbs and rocky ridgelines to pizza on Mount Washington. Hopefully my experience can help you enjoy trail running in the White Mountains, too.
Disclosure: Just a heads-up, The Travel Runner earns a little commission if you buy through some links here, but it won’t cost you anything extra. Thanks for your support!
Table of Contents
What is the Presidential Traverse?
For the uninitiated, the Presidential Traverse is a beast of a hike (or run, if you’re a little unhinged).
It links together the major Presidential peaks and is one of the most popular trails in White Mountain National Forest. Many people debate which summits should be included (the most being 13 summits). But, generally, these 7 are in every discussion:
- Mount Madison
- Mount Adams
- Mount Jefferson
- Mountain Washington
- Mount Monroe
- Mount Eisenhower
- Mount Pierce
Most people hike it over 2–3 days, but I had read about some people running it in one. So I decided I liked the latter idea more (I’d also add Mount Clay in between Jefferson and Washington).
The route follows the Presidential Range, a subrange of the White Mountains in northern New Hampshire. These peaks are known for their rugged beauty, exposed ridgelines, and some of the most extreme weather in the United States — Mount Washington alone has held records for the highest wind speeds on Earth.
The full traverse typically covers between 19–23 miles depending on the exact trail variations and whether you include all the official peaks. It involves more than 8,000 feet of elevation gain, almost all of it on rocky, technical trails above the treeline.
This isn’t your average trail run.
It’s more like a long-distance scramble with stunning views and a healthy dose of Type II fun. It demands fitness, caution, and a deep respect for the mountains — and it rewards you with some of the most epic terrain in the Northeast.
It’s not just long. It’s rocky. Technical. Exposed. And it’ll test every bit of fitness, grit, and ankle stability you think you have (trust me, my right ankle still hurts at the time of this writing).
The Presidential Traverse: North to South Breakdown
Start of Presidential Traverse: Valley Way Trail (Randolph, NH)
The climb to Mount Madison hits fast and hard. You barely get a chance to settle in before the trail starts punching you in the lungs.
The trail starts out in the thick of the forest, immediately throwing rocks, roots, and the occasional small stream at you. As I climbed, the trees started thinning out and bits of sunlight started to peak through more and more.
I knew I was close because I started passing more and more hikers going the opposite way, I can only assume finishing up a multi-day trek on the Traverse. Then, eventually, I popped out of the trees and saw the Madison Hut sitting off to the right of the trail, and Madison towering over it to the left.
Most people drop their bags at Madison and head up. Me? I just continued straight to the top, excited to get my first peak AND peek at the views.
By the time I topped out on Madison, my legs were burning — but the views? Worth it.
The morning light was just starting to stretch across the ridges, and for a few minutes, it felt like I had the whole range to myself. I was eventually joined by other hikers, and we chatted for a bit before I continued on toward Adams.
Mount Madison to Mount Adams
Adams might technically be second on the route, but it hits like a boss battle.
After filling up my water at the Madison Hut then taking the wrong way, I finally settled on the path toward Adams. And, boy, I know you do more climbing to Madison technically, the steepness factor of Adams is no joke.
It had me stopping and “taking in the views” (aka breathing) more than once. This was the first time I had to stop and remind myself: it’s not about speed today. (The 20-minute miles were a constant reminder of that).
But after finally reaching the top, I enjoyed the views for a bit and headed down to Thunderstorm Junction and then on to Jefferson…beginning with massive boulder piles.
Mount Jefferson (And a Food Break)
On the way to Jefferson was the first bit of adversity.
About a mile after leaving Adams, I seriously rolled my ankle, almost falling into a huge pile of rocks in the process.
Luckily, I was able to stop myself and avoided being one of the many headlines on Reddit, “Runner evacuated from Presidentials.” So I can look at the bright side there. It was sore, but I figured I’d be fine to finish. This was mile 6 of 19, so I’d have plenty of time to assess and take a bailout option if needed (though this wasn’t a serious thought).
And this is where the views continued to get more epic as Washington came into view.
On both sides of the ridge, you could see for miles. I couldn’t have asked for better weather. There were calls for some light showers in the afternoon (right around the time I expected to finish), but other than that it was clear skies and sunshine.
Plus, I was able to run some of these sections (albeit slowly thanks to my ankle and the terrain). But the climb to Jefferson was brutal and slowed me down quite a bit. Rocky, a bit narrow at times, and just UP. From the lowest point to the summit, it’s around a half mile with roughly 800 feet of gain.
Plus, throw in a false summit and your morale takes a few shots.
When I got to the top, though, it ended up being my favorite view.
Maybe it was the lack of people. Maybe it was the view of Washington and the surrounding mountains. But I enjoyed hanging out here for a bit, snacking, and just adjusting my gear before starting toward Mount Clay and Washington, knowing I’d have a bit of climbing coming up. A
At this point, almost three hours had passed and I had summited 3 of the 8 peaks.
Plan your next runcation without overthinking it
A free, runner-tested weekend kit with:
- A simple trip-planning framework
- A packing checklist that actually works
- A quick decision guide for short travel runs
Mount Clay and Mount Washington (And a Second Food Break)
I was actually excited for this section after viewing it from Jefferson.
Not as many huge boulders, a bit more paved trail (for the White Mountains, at least), and some runnable sections, which meant I could make up some of the time I lost before. I cut some off, but still couldn’t run as much as I wanted to without risking a fall.
So this turned into somewhat of a “rike” (run-hike) as I ran when I had the chance, and hiked when the terrain laughed at me for even attempting to run.
I reached Mount Clay at mile 9, which was about a mile and a half from Jefferson.
I almost missed Clay completely, taking the wrong path at a split. My watch beeped a few moments later letting me know I’d gone off trail and I debated summiting Mount Clay at all. Eventually, I decided I’d kick myself if I didn’t, so I turned and ran back.
For me, Clay wasn’t anything special.
It had nice views, but it wasn’t anything compared to any of the ones I’d seen already. There was also a gaggle of hikers at the top that had made the summit their new home. And when I say gaggle, I mean like 15-20 hikers all splayed across the summit, every one of them sitting right in the middle of the trail. So I’ll shamefully admit I had to go off-trail to get around them, something I avoid at all costs in alpine zones.
Obviously I know doing the Presi Traverse in the height of summer comes with more crowds. But I think we can all agree that a summit is almost always better without 15-20 others, especially Mount Clay, which is already small (end rant).
After, it was on to Washington which I felt strong climbing up to the top.
Along the way I caught up to a man I had seen earlier at the Madison Hut when I was going to the summit and he was headed toward Adams. Super nice guy named Evan from Montreal.
We kept each other company to the top and then grabbed a pizza and Coke inside the visitor center — a runner’s special.
And shoutout to Evan. He paid for my meal because I mistakenly left my debit card back in the car with Kaitlyn. The generosity of people never ceases to amaze me, and Evan was another great example of that.
After a bit at the top, we headed toward Jefferson, where Evan would tell me I could carry on because he’s not batshit crazy enough to run the Presi.
Not his words, but I imagine the thought is there somewhere.
Mount Monroe, Mount Eisenhower, and Mount Pierce
On the way to Washington, I could tell the rain clouds were coming in. And by Monroe it started to sprinkle.
Honestly, this was super welcome. It was extremely hot before that, and I was happy to get some shade and a cool off. The only worry I had was with how slick the rocks would get once they were wet.
Thankfully, only some sections were slick. But I was going slow enough that it really didn’t matter.
For me, the summits of Monroe, Eisenhower, and Pierce are nice. But they’re nothing compared to the front half.
Kaitlyn met me on Eisenhower, then doubled back over Pierce and down to the car. She was updating me on her progress and was close to Eisenhower. So I picked up the pace, passing by Mount Franklin and getting to Eisenhower (which was a BRUTAL climb in the moment).
These were also some of my fastest miles of the entire run, averaging a whopping 16:00/mile.
Upon reaching Mount Pierce, I was so happy to be done. I rolled my ankle again three times after the first time. And by now, I had a noticeable limp.
I was also just tired. I hadn’t run in proper mountains like this since last year’s western road trip. And they were properly beating my ass. I loved it, but I needed to lie down and stuff my face with copious amounts of pizza.
So, we took the Crawford Path down to Crawford Depot (around 2.5 miles) to the car.
End of Presidential Traverse: Crawford Depot
Thankfully Kaitlyn had parked and started her run to Eisenhower at a good time because the parking lot was PACKED when we reached the trail end.
I limped my way to the car, passing a trail runner who had glided past us on the way down. Now, he was riding a bicycle and waved to us casually as if he hadn’t embarrassed our trail running skills moments ago. A true legend.
At the car, Kaitlyn gave me a Coke and some of the snacks we had packed for our road trip. I sat, legs shattered, body tired, mind frayed — but extremely happy and content.
I’d just completed the Presi Traverse in one day. Almost 20 miles, ~8500 feet of climbing, and 8:30:18 of “running”.
It was epic.
What I Took with Me on the Presidential Traverse
I accidentally left my Salomon running pack at home, otherwise I would have taken it.
But I had my Skyline 30 from Outdoor Vitals, and it did an amazing job. I expected it to bounce a bit more since it wouldn’t be fully loaded, but it fit really well.
So, here’s everything I wore and carried in my pack:
Clothing
- Shirt: Salomon Outline
- Layer: Rabid Raccoon Race Shirt
- Rain jacket: REI Mount Rainier
- Shorts: Fabletics shorts
- Shoes: Brooks Cascadia
- Socks: Injinji Ridgelines Artist Designed Crew
- Hat: Rnnr Pacer Hat
Gear
- Pack: Outdoor Vitals Skyline 30
- Running belt: Salomon Pulse Belt
- Watch: Coros Apex
- Camera: DJI Osmo Action 4
- Phone: iPhone 14 Pro Max
- Safety device: Garmin inReach Mini 2
- First aid kit: Small homemade kit (followed this REI checklist)
- Water bottles: A mix of Outdoor Vitals, Salomon, and Lifestraw filter bottle (didn’t use, but just in case)
- White Mountain National Forest map
Fuel
- Tailwind Endurance Fuel
- Tailwind High Carb Fuel
- Granola bars
- Gummy bears
What You Need to Know Before Running the Presidential Traverse
I got extremely lucky in my first crack at the Presidential Traverse.
Now, it helped that I could be extremely flexible with my time. So I waited for a day that had great weather. But, there are definitely some things to keep in mind before you head off if you plan on doing the Traverse.
And I’d be irresponsible if I didn’t mention these:
- Always, ALWAYS check the weather: You should be following this regularly, even up until the time you reach the trail. I even checked with the Madison Hut workers to verify it hadn’t changed. It changes fast here, so be aware.
- Know your exit routes: Whether it’s because of weather, injury, or you’re just not feeling up to it. Either have a paper map (which is what I did), download the offline routes on your phone (also did this), or have a GPS device. Either way, know how to bail out if needed.
- Bring an emergency kit: Even if you don’t expect to be on the ridge for long, things can change. And it’s better to be prepared. Mylar blanket, layers, extra food, first aid, etc. It ends up being a small part of your gear, but can have a huge impact.
- Bring sturdy shoes: Rocks. Lots and lots of rocks. That’s what the entire trail is, and those rocks will beat the shit out of those shoes. So you better have protection, and they better be durable. Otherwise, you’re gonna regret it. For some help, check out my post on the best trail shoes for travel.
- Bring enough water storage: Madison Hut, Washington, and near Monroe at Lakes of the Clouds. Those are the only three water fill-ups I came across (feel free to correct me in the comments). I only used around 1-1.5L, but had more storage in case I needed it.
Other Great Trail Options Nearby
The Presidential Traverse was hands down one of my favorite experiences in the Whites.
But, it’s not the only trail I’d recommend. Here are a few I’ve run and written about that I think you may enjoy as well:
- Franconia Ridge Loop (8 miles)
- Mount Willard (3 miles)
- Mount Moosilauke (7.5 miles)
So, would you do the Presi Traverse?
This was honestly one of the coolest experiences of my life.
And I’ve been pretty lucky, having the opportunity to hike to Machu Picchu, visit Theth in Albania, and run/hike in some incredible places. But I’d been planning on doing this for a few years after running White Mountain National Forest’s trails in 2023. So having the chance to do it, and also get perfect weather for it, is something I’m extremely grateful for.
Hopefully my experience can help you out. I know I watched and read countless videos, blogs, and Reddit threads to plan my own attempt.
So, if you plan on doing the Presidential Traverse in one day, let me know in the comments. And if you have any questions, feel free to ask and I’ll help the best I can!
More Stories & Race Reports
Kyle Cash | Trail Journal
I’m Kyle — the runner behind The Travel Runner. I run trails all over the world to bring you stories, tips, and gear that actually works. From national parks to forgotten paths, I’ve got mud on my shoes and too many snacks in my pack.
Let’s go find new ground.
2 responses to “Running the Presidential Traverse in One Day: My Full Recap”
Great job! A few years ago I did a one day Pemi loop and I’m considering the presi traverse now. If not this year, definitely next year. Can’t wait!
Thanks! The Pemi Loop is next on my list actually. Hoping to maybe do it this year but we’ll see how things shake out. Anything standing in your way of doing the Presi (time, weather, etc.)?
Leave a Reply